Lori Hernandez 10/21/24 Lori Hernandez 10/21/24

10 Great Tulips for Cut Flower Use

Tulips are an exceptional cut flower.

10 Great Tulips for Cut Flower Use

There’s nothing quite like Tulips in the spring. After the long dreary months of winter, they are a healing balm to soul and delight to behold.

For most us, fall is the time to plant Tulips for blooms the following spring. Here on our farm, we usually try to get all our Tulips planted before Thanksgiving.

We grow our Tulips in temporary raised beds that are disassembled after the Tulip harvest is over. You can learn more about why we grow this way HERE.

When we harvest Tulips for cut flower use, we treat them as an Annual flower, not a Perennial. We harvest the entire plant, bulb and all.

They can be stored dry (with no water) in buckets or crates for about 2 weeks in our walk-in cooler before being bunched and wrapped. When we’re ready to use them, the bulbs are removed from the stems and discarded. The freshly cut stems go into cold water and they are ready to go.

It may seem odd to throw away the bulbs, but once the stem/foliage is removed from the bulb, the bulb has no way of regenerating itself.

If you want your Tulips to come back, don’t harvest the blooms. Enjoy the blooms in the garden, instead of the vase. It’s also VITAL to allow the foliage to die back naturally on your landscape Tulips. If you remove the spent flowers/foliage too early, they cannot perennialize properly.

To summarize:

1.If you want your Tulips to behave like a Perennial, DO NOT HARVEST the blooms. Allow them to grow, bloom, and die back in the garden (but please note that many Tulip varieties only bloom reliably for 2-3 seasons).

2.If you want to harvest Tulips for bouquets, treat them as an ANNUAL. You will get one bloom per bulb, per season. The bulbs are discarded/composted after harvest. New bulbs are planted each fall.

If you want to grow Tulips for cut flower use, here are a few I’ve trialed over the years and can heartily recommend!

Apricot Impression

Type: Darwin Hybrid

Height: 24 inches

Bloom Time: Mid/Late

These Darwin Hybrid-type Tulips grow impressively long stems! A classic single Tulip with clean lines and form. They bloom early and often overlap with the Daffodil season.

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Apricot Parrot

Type: Parrot

Height: 20 inches

Bloom Time: Late

Parrot Tulips are fascinatingly beautiful. I love the contrasting colors on these Tulips. They’re decadent, luxurious, and unique. Many people have never seen Tulips like these before!

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Columbus

Type: Double Early (Peony flowering)

Height: 14 inches

Bloom Time: Early/Mid

One of the earliest “Peony” type Tulips to bloom. The bright raspberry-pink blooms with white edging are a welcome treat after a long, dreary winter.

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Foxtrot

Type: Double Mid (Peony flowering)

Height: 14 inches

Bloom Time: Early/Mid

A dreamy pale pink Tulip that pairs perfectly with “Foxy Foxtrot”. They are similar in size, height and bloom time. “Foxtrot” and “Foxy Foxtrot” complement each other beautifully (see image below)!

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Foxy Foxtrot

Type: Double Mid (Peony flowering)

Height: 14 inches

Bloom Time: Early/Mid

Foxy Foxtrot is sturdy, reliable, and long-lasting in the vase. The delicious buttery-yellow blooms, painted with streaks of warm pink, are a pure delight.

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Tulip "Gudoshnik Double"

Type: Double Mid (Peony flowering)

Height: 24 inches

Bloom Time: Early

Each Peony-like bloom is a symphony of shades of red, coral, orange, yellow, and cream. These Tulips are exceptionally tall and attention-grabbing, in the garden or the vase.

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"Mystic Van Eijk"

Type: Darwin Hybrid

Height: 22 inches

Bloom Time: Mid

The gorgeous shimmering coral pink tones are mesmerizing, like a spring sunrise. A charming Tulip, perfect for the garden or spring arrangements.

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Parrot Negrita

Type: Parrot

Height: 18 inches

Bloom Time: Mid

If I could only grow one Tulip for the rest of my life, it would be “Parrot Negrita”. The color, the contrast, the form…. They are quite possibly the most elegant Tulip I’ve ever seen. They look as if they are straight out of a Baroque-era painting (psst… I was a Studio Art and Art History teacher before I became a farmer!).

They may look oddly shaped as they are forming buds, but trust the process. Harvest when the buds begin to swell open (pictured below). The blooms become even more stunning as they open up and age in the vase.

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Sunlover

Type: Double Mid (Peony flowering)

Height: 22 inches

Bloom Time: Mid

A dose of cheery bright sunshine after the long dark winter. These huge blooms are sure to make you smile. The Peony-like blooms are a mix of assorted shades of sunny yellow and orange, with occasional streaks of glowing red.

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Super Parrot

Type: Parrot

Height: 16 inches

Bloom Time: Mid

These elegant Tulips are breathtaking on their own or paired with other Parrot Tulips (I love to mix them with “Parrot Negrita” for a particularly stunning presentation). This variety has quickly become an MVP on the farm. White Tulips complement any color scheme. I can never grow enough!

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“Super Parrot” (white) and “Parrot Negrita” (purple)

Lori Hernandez 10/10/24 Lori Hernandez 10/10/24

How to Grow Foxglove

How to Grow: Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)

INTRODUCTION

Whimsical, magical and enchanting. Foxglove is all that and more!

The mere sight of them evokes visions of mythical lands and I always expect to see fairies flitting about them (but it’s usually just bumblebees! Ha!).

Foxglove stems look incredible in arrangements.

When crafting bouquets, it’s helpful to incorporate “line” or “spike” shaped flowers, such as Snapdragon, Veronica, Larkspur, Delphinium or Foxglove, to add interest and height to the arrangement.

Foxglove is a fabulous addition to the cutting garden… or to simply grow for the pollinators (and fairies).

Let’s look at the Pros and Cons of growing Foxglove for cut flower use.

PROS

Their “spike” shape adds drama, movement and visual interest to bouquets. There’s nothing else quite like them!
They are long-lasting in the vase when harvested at the proper stage (more about that later!)
They are magical. I think that’s reason enough to grow them. ;)
They usually provide 2 flushes of blooms - one in late spring/early summer and another about a month or two later.

CONS

Warning: All parts of the plant are toxic if ingested. If you have curious children or pets that could eat the flowers or leaves, it’s best to skip growing Foxglove. Touching the plants/flowers is perfectly safe. While I don’t want to downplay their toxicity, I do want to point out that many common flowers (and houseplants, too!) are toxic if ingested, including Morning Glory, Delphinium, Larkspur, Tulips, Lilies, Hyacinths, Hydrangea, Lily of the Valley, Poinsettias, Clematis, Alstroemeria, Sweet Peas and more.
Most varieties are Biennial, which means they produce foliage their first year, overwinter in the garden, then bloom in their second year. That’s a long time to wait to see blooms! In order to have some plants in bloom each year, it’s important to start more plants from seed each year.

CHOOSING SEEDS

Depending on where you live (your climate) and what variety of Foxglove you grow, they may perform as:

an Annual (1 year life cycle),
a Biennial (2 year life cycle), or
a short-lived Perennial (2-3 years)

Some Foxglove varieties have been bred to be FYF (First Year Flowering). This means they will grow like an Annual flower and bloom in their first season. They may flower in their second year, but not reliably.

Most Foxglove varieties are Biennials (if the seed pack does not indicate they are FYF, you can assume they are Biennial).

It usually takes about 360 days from sowing the seeds until they bloom. If you sow the seeds in May, you can expect them to bloom the FOLLOWING year in May. In the first season, they will only grow foliage. Leave them in the garden over the winter (they are tough!) and they will bloom the following spring. After they bloom in their second season, they drop their seeds and the plant dies.

If you allow the plants to drop their seeds and grow in an undisturbed area, they may “self-sow” the following spring and create a “Perennial” patch of Foxglove, with some new plants establishing every year.

Note: If you buy a Foxglove plant at a Plant Nursery and it’s in full bloom, the plant is in its second season. It will die after its blooming is complete. Do not expect it to come back the next season (although it may! Foxglove can be unpredictable like that!).

The following Foxglove series are a great choice for cut flower use, since they are FYF:

“Camelot” series (FYF - first year flowering)
“Dalmation” series (FYF - first year flowering)

Here are a few of my favorite Foxglove varieties to grow for cut flower use:

“Camelot Mix” (FYF - first year flowering)
“Camelot Rose” (FYF - first year flowering)
“Dalmation Peach” (FYF - first year flowering)
“Gloxiniaeflora Mix” (Biennial)

HOW TO SOW

Foxglove is quite easy to grow from seed, although it can take up to 3 weeks for seeds to germinate… so be patient! Foxglove prefers cool weather, so keep the seedlings on the cooler side (unlike Agertum, Celosia, and Zinnias, which like it HOT!).

Transplants or Direct Sow?

It’s best to start Foxglove from seed indoors or in Winter Sowing containers to be transplanted into the garden.

They can be Direct Sown, but this can be difficult since the seeds are tiny.

Start seeds in trays about 6-8 weeks before your Average Last Spring Frost Date. Transplant the seedlings after your Average Last Spring Frost Date.

If you want to speed up the process of growing Biennial Foxglove (and not have the plants taking up valuable space in your garden all summer long), you can try this “Fall Planting” trick.

Start the Foxglove seeds in trays in mid-summer.
When the seedlings are 6-8 weeks old, transplant them into your garden beds. By this time, it’s early fall and you likely have some Annual flowers that are spent anyway. Remove them and put the Foxglove seedling in that space instead.
Allow the young plants to establish and grow a strong root system before the ground freezes.
The following spring, they will bloom!

PLANT SPACING

9-12 inch spacing is appropriate for cut flower use.

GROWING ON

Like most cut flowers, Foxglove appreciates consistent feeding and watering. They perform best in fertile soil.

Plants can be netted or supported to prevent them from falling over. They can grow quite tall! I usually don’t net them, but other people choose to.

Pinching is not required. Most plants that have a “rosette” type growth habit (low-growing leaves radiating from the center of the plant, like Foxglove and Statice) do not require pinching.

Foxglove does not have many issues with pests or diseases.

STAGE OF HARVEST

Remember when I mentioned bumblebees earlier?

I have a bit of a complicated relationship with bumblebees.

On one hand, I love to watch them bumble around in the flowers. It’s so fun and relaxing to be around those adorable “Flying Pandas” (that’s what I call them).

On the other hand, I know that as soon as they pollinate a floret on the Foxglove, that floret will turn brown and ugly and fall off the stem.

This is true for nearly all cut flowers - once the flower has been pollinated, it has fulfilled its mission in life and it immediately moves onto the next phase - dying and going to seed.

If you harvest a stem of florets that have been pollinated, they will all look brown and ugly within a day or two.

The solution? Harvest BEFORE they are pollinated. Check the bottom florets on each stem. When 1 or 2 florets are open, it’s time to harvest before the bumblebees get to them! I like to harvest early in the morning before the bumblebees are awake.

The remaining florets on the stem will gradually open up in the vase over the next week.

P.S. It’s completely acceptable to leave a few stems for the bumblebees. That’s what I do ;)

POST-HARVEST CARE

Like most cut flowers, always harvest in the cool of the day and allow the flowers to rehydrate in water in a cool location overnight before arranging.

Foxglove is ethylene gas sensitive (gas released from ripening fruit which causes flowers to ripen and expire very quickly), so be sure to display them away from fruit.

QUESTIONS?

Ask them here and I’ll get back to you!

Ready for more?

If you’re serious about growing the garden of your dreams this year, register for my online course, “Backyard Cutting Garden 101”. You’ll find everything you need to plan, grow, harvest and arrange your stunning blooms. I can’t WAIT to help you grow! Click on the button below for all the details.

I'm ready to grow!

Lori Hernandez 10/5/24 Lori Hernandez 10/5/24

How to Grow Frosted Explosion Grass

INTRODUCTION

If you’re going to plant a cutting garden, then Frosted Explosion Grass is a “must-grow” plant!

The gorgeous seed heads add irresistible sparkle, texture and elegance to bouquets and arrangements. It can be harvested and utilized at various stages, which makes it extremely versatile.

When the stems are young, the decorative seeds are a mix of lime green and red-brown. As the stems age, the seeds turn rich red-brown, and when the stems dry on the plant, they turn a dusky wheat color.

Frosted Explosion Grass is easy to grow, incredibly prolific, long-lasting in the vase AND it’s a great dried flower option.

What’s not to love?!?

Anytime you make a bouquet and think “Hmmm… it’s missing something…”, just grab a few stems of Frosted Explosion Grass and you’ll be shocked to see what a difference it makes!

Let’s look at the Pros and Cons of growing Frosted Explosion Grass for cut flower use.

PROS

It’s easy to grow. It’s grass seed, after all!
It looks beautiful in nearly all bouquets and arrangements.
It’s an excellent “filler” that adds mass and volume to your bouquets with just a few stems (Translation: If you’re running short on flowers, the Frosted Explosion Grass will help make the bouquet look full and lush).
It’s long-lasting in the vase.
It looks beautiful when dried (either allow it to dry on the plant or hang fresh cut stems upside down to dry).
It’s “cut-and-come-again”. The more stems you harvest, the more stems it will grow.

CONS

It can be too productive! We can never keep up with harvesting all the stems! Do your best to harvest on a regular basis to keep the plants productive. If you stop harvesting, the plants will go completely to seed and stop growing new stems.
It can be a bit tricky to harvest as the plants can get unruly.

HOW TO SOW

Frosted Explosion Grass is easy to start from seed.

Transplants or Direct Sow?

I do not recommend direct sowing Frosted Explosion Grass, simply because it’s too easily mistaken as a weed when it's a small seedling.

Start the seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before planting out. Drop 2-3 seeds per cell, press down into the seed starting mix, then cover lightly with vermiculite or seed starting mix. Seeds germinate in 7-14 days.

Transplant the seedlings after the threat of frost.

For best results, I recommend planting 2-3 successions of Frosted Explosion Grass, about 2-3 weeks apart.
This will ensure you have a steady supply of stems for months.

PLANT SPACING

9-12 spacing works best for most growers.

Ethereal looking **Frosted Explosion Grass** in a centerpiece arrangement

GROWING ON

This grass is easygoing and undemanding. Once the seedlings are established, they need average amounts of water.

I do not recommend pinching or netting Frosted Explosion Grass.

About 6 weeks after the plants begin producing their beautiful seeded stems, they begin to fade and die back. This is why it’s useful to plant several successions, so you can abandon the old plants and harvest from the “fresher” ones.

This year, we experimented with “cutting back” the old plants with a weed whipper to see if they would re-bloom. We cut them back on August 14 and they DID rebloom about a month later, but the stems were much shorter… which makes sense because the plants need about 14 hours of light to produce long stems and we only have 13 hours of light in mid-September.

We may try it again, but cut back earlier in the season so the new stems can grow back when we have more daylight!

STAGE OF HARVEST

You can harvest Frosted Explosion Grass at any stage, from barely open to fully blown open. It all depends on personal preference.

Seeds emerge green, then fade to reddish brown.

Sometimes we want lime green seeds, sometimes we want reddish brown seeds and sometimes we want the ethereal faded wheat-colored stems. It just depends on what kind of bouquets and arrangements we are making!

Harvest regularly to encourage new growth.

However, if you plan on using them for dried flowers, allow stems to completely mature and dry on the plant before harvesting. This produces extra full and airy dried material.

POST-HARVEST CARE

Frosted Explosion Grass requires no special post-harvest care.

QUESTIONS?

Ask them here and I’ll get back to you!

Ready for more?

I'm ready to grow!

Lori Hernandez 9/5/24 Lori Hernandez 9/5/24

How to Grow: Globe Amaranth

How to Grow: Globe Amaranth (Gomphrena)

Pronunciation: glowb am-ah-ranth or gaam-free-nuh

INTRODUCTION

Cute. Adorable. Sweet.

Gomphrena (or Globe Amaranth - I use the two names interchangeably) is not the flashiest flower in the cutting garden, but they are useful, versatile and playful. Every garden should have some!

They can be tucked into bouquets or even better, displayed on their own in bunches.

But here’s the best part - Gomphrena is a wonderful “Everlasting” (dried) flower that retains its color and form for years. During the long winter months, I have dried Gomphrena bunches scattered around, bringing brightness and beauty to our home.

Gomphrena is a heat-loving flower and thrives in hot climates.

Let’s look at the Pros and Cons of growing Globe Amaranth for cut flower use.

PROS

They come in a variety of colors (mostly pinks, reds, violets and white)
They are a playful addition to bouquets.
They are very heat tolerant.
They have a good vase life of about 7 days.
They are an excellent “Everlasting” flower.
They are great for floral “wearables”, such as flower crowns, corsages, boutonnieres, etc.

CONS

They can be somewhat tricky to harvest.
They need heat to thrive.

CHOOSING SEEDS

There are 2 main types of Gomphrena, so pay attention while choosing seed.

Gomphrena globosa has a more branching type of growth habit. I find the stems a bit knobby and cumbersome to harvest at times, although they DO fill out a bouquet quickly. It comes in a variety of beautiful violets, pinks, and whites. The plants have broad, thick leaves. Harvestable stems have multiple blooms per stem.

Gomphrena haageana has more upright stems and harvesting is a breeze. The plants have narrow leaves that are easy to strip off. It comes in shades of red and orange, much bolder than the Gomphrena globosa colors. Harvestable stems have only one bloom per stem, so while they are easier to harvest, they are time-consuming.

Oh, how I wish these came in pastel shades too! I would probably grow only the Gomphrena haageana type if they came in more colors!

Here are a few of my favorite Gomphrena to grow for cut flower use:

HOW TO SOW

Gomphrena is a late summer blooming flower and loves heat. They should be planted after the last spring frost (for us, it’s about May 15).

Transplants or Direct Sow?

Transplants are recommended, as germination can be erratic (and seedlings look like weeds!).

Transplants should be started indoors 6-8 weeks before the last spring frost. They like heat, so place the trays on a heat mat to germinate. After germination, keep the seedlings growing in a warm place.

PLANT SPACING

Spacing varies depending on what type you’re growing.

Globosa types are best at 9-12 inch spacing.

Haageana types can grow at 6-9 inch spacing.

GROWING ON

Like all direct sown or transplanted seedlings, be sure the plants have consistent watering when they are small and getting established. After plants are established, Gomphrena is somewhat drought tolerant.

Gomphrena does not require pinching, as plants branch naturally.

By the time the plants are large enough to bloom, they are quite self-reliant. Deep watering once a week should be sufficient (water until soil is saturated as far down as you can stick your finger in the soil).

If flowers are harvested and spent blooms are “deadheaded” (removed), the plants will continue to send up blooms until frost or cold weather arrives.

We do not use netting or support with Gomphrena, since it would make harvesting difficult. If the plants are planted close enough together, they will support each other.

STAGE OF HARVEST

Harvest when the blooms are in full color, but not “tired” and faded. Gomphrena has a long “harvest window”, which means you will have a couple of weeks where they are at the ideal stage before they start to fade (unlike some flowers that have a harvest window of just mere hours!).

Harvest deep into the plant, down to 1-2 sets of leaves from the bottom, to stimulate more growth. If you’re growing lots of them or it’s the end of your growing season, it might be easier to harvest the entire plant at once, as harvesting individual stems can be time-consuming.

We have started using this “whole plant harvest” method on our farm, instead of treating the plants as “cut-and-come again”. We succession plant Gomphrena 3-4 times over the season about 2-3 weeks apart, so we always have some plants ready to be harvested.

POST-HARVEST CARE

As always, harvest flowers in the cool of the day (morning or evening).

Gomphrena requires no special care if being used fresh.

For dried flowers, hang small bunches upside down in a warm, dry, well-ventilated location out of the direct sun (a garage, closet or even kitchen pantry could work). Once dry, flowers hold indefinitely.

Dried **Gomphrena** - QIS Carmine, QIS Orange

QUESTIONS?

Ask them here and I’ll get back to you!

Ready for more?

If you’re serious about growing the garden of your dreams this year, register for my online course, “Backyard Cutting Garden 101”. You’ll find everything you need to plan, grow, harvest, and arrange your stunning blooms. I can’t WAIT to help you grow! Click on the button below for all the details.

I'm ready to grow!

Lori Hernandez 7/23/24 Lori Hernandez 7/23/24

“Everlasting Flowers”: How to Dry Flowers

How to dry flowers… so you can enjoy them year round!

Ahhhh, summer.... some days I wish I could hold onto you forever. But alas, I've discovered it's your fleeting nature that makes you oh so sweet.

I must confess. I adore winter and look forward to that time of quiet restoration after the insanity of summer.

But I miss my flowers.

Imagine my delight when I discovered that some of the flowers we grow are considered "Everlasting" flowers.

"Everlasting" flowers are a category of cut flowers that are easy to dry and will last for years with proper handling.

Drying flowers is a fun project to do with kids... and a great way to create a year round reminder of summer fun.

Last fall, I dried bunches and bunches of flowers, then used them to decorate my home during the long winter months.

“Everlasting Bouquets” of flowers for drying: Celosia, Eucalyptus, Globe Amaranth, Green Drops Grass, Statice, Strawflower

How to Dry Flowers

It's a simple, easy process!

1. Cut flowers in the morning, after the dew has dried but before the day is too hot (usually before 11am).

*Each flower has it's own unique "ideal stage of harvest", which can make things tricky... but as a general rule, cut the flowers early while they are still opening up, not completely in bloom. You may have to do some experimenting to determine the "ideal stage of harvest".

2. Strip the foliage off the stem. (Note: Strawflower stems are notoriously fragile. It's recommended that the flower heads are gently popped off the stem and replaced with a piece of floral wire instead).

3. Create bundles of about 10-12 stems and secure the stem ends with a rubber band or string.

4. Hang the bundles upside down (flowers facing the floor) in a dry, dark place, out of direct sunlight (sun makes the colors fade). An attic or closet would be good. A basement probably too damp. I've had good luck drying in our garage and kitchen pantry.

5. In 2-3 weeks, the flowers should be fully dry and ready to use in Everlasting arrangements.

20180813_112449[1].jpg — Statice “QIS Apricot”

Alternative Method for Drying Flowers

This method works best for: Bells of Ireland, Celosia, Hydrangea and Yarrow

1. Place flowers with stems in a jar filled halfway with water.

2. Place jar in a warm, dry, dark place (a kitchen pantry or attic would be ideal).

3. Allow water to evaporate naturally. Once water is completely gone, the flowers should be dry and ready to use.

Flowers Suitable for Drying

Almost every flowers CAN be dried... but not all of them will actually look nice. Ha!

When in doubt, you can always try it out... but as a general rule, look for flowers/foliage that feel "papery" or stiff.

Here are a few that are good candidates for drying. Of course, this is by no means an exhaustive list!

Amaranth
Artemisia
Baby's Breath
Bells of Ireland
Celosia
Craspedia (Drumstick Flower, Billy Buttons)
Dusty Miller
Eryngium (Sea Holly)
Grasses - Pods/Seed heads
Gomphrena (Globe Amaranth)
Hydrangea
Lavender
Money Plant (Lunaria)
Nigella (Love in a Mist) - Pods
Poppy - Pods
Queen Anne's Lace (Ammi or Daucus)
Starflower (Scabiosa) - Pods
Statice
Strawflower
Wheat
Yarrow

Right now is a GREAT time to start drying flowers for your fall and winter decorating.

Please be sure to comment or share with me if you try this fun project. Enjoy these last few weeks of summer :)

-Lori

READY FOR MORE?

If you’re serious about growing the garden of your dreams this year, and want me to answer all your burning questions, register for my online course, “Backyard Cutting Garden 101”.

You’ll find everything you need to plan, grow, harvest and arrange your stunning blooms. I can’t WAIT to help you grow! Click on the button below for all the details.

Ready for More