How to Grow

How to Grow: Amaranth


How to Grow: Amaranth


Pronunciation: am-ah-ranth

Amaranth is a beautiful and unique flower to add to your cutting garden. Their velvety flowers are elegant looking in the vase and add some real drama to your cut flower arrangements.

It’s also fun and easy to grow. Amaranth plants can tower in the garden and some even make great ornamental plants, if you decide you’d rather enjoy them in the garden rather than the vase.

“Coral Fountain” Amaranth

Another bonus of Amaranth is it makes a great dried flower. I dried Amaranth two seasons ago for fall decor arrangements and it still looks great!

You may have heard of Amaranth before or even seen it’s seeds in the grocery store! Yes, there are several different species of Amaranth and they can be used for food, foliage or flowers. Amaranth seeds are tiny and often cooked/prepared like quinoa (another “ancient grain” that is popular today).

Let’s look at the Pros and Cons of growing Amaranth for cut flower use.

PROS

  • They are easy to grow. 

  • They are very unique and fun to look at. 

  • The plants are productive for a long period of time. 

  • They add elegance and drama to arrangements. No other flower has the same draping, trailing quality.

  • They have a good vase life of 7-10 days, with proper harvest and care.

CONS

  • They can shed their seeds on your table if harvested too late.

  • They can sometimes grow so large that they can be unwieldy and difficult to use in arrangements (more about how to prevent that later…). 

CHOOSING SEEDS

There are 2 main types of Amaranth grown for cut flower use.

“Spike” type Amaranth has an upright growing habit and the plants produce “spikes” or “plumes” that add height and drama to arrangements.

“Trailing” type Amaranth has a draping growth habit and the plants produce “ropes” that hang and drape in arrangements. 

Both types are useful and worth growing. Here are a few of my favorite Amaranths to grow for cut flower use: 

“Autumn Palette” and “Red Spike”

“Autumn’s Touch” Amaranth and “Red Spike” Amaranth


HOW TO SOW

Amaranth loves heat. They do not like cold temperatures and can’t handle frost, so don’t plant them too early. Don’t worry - they grow quickly when the soil warms up. They will begin to bloom in mid/late July and bloom until the fall frost.

Transplants or Direct Sow? 

Amaranth is versatile and can be transplanted or direct sown. 

The seeds are tiny, so you may need to use the “toothpick method” for planting seeds. Pour the seeds into a small bowl, wet the toothpick with your tongue, then dip it in the seeds to pick up 1-2 seeds on the toothpick. Transfer seeds to your trays or desired planting spot. 

Transplants should be started indoors about 4-6 weeks before the last spring frost. They love heat, so be sure to keep them warm while they are growing indoors. 

Direct sowing is another option (my preferred method!), as the plants grow very quickly. Direct sow in warm soil, after the threat of frost is passed. Sprinkle a couple seeds in spots spaced about a foot apart. You can thin the plants later (pluck out the unneeded seedlings).


PLANT SPACING

Amaranth plants can get quite large, so they should be spaced at about 12-15” apart.

GROWING ON

It is wise to provide support or netting to keep the plants from falling over. If you are growing just a few plants, large tomato cages may be sufficient. If you are growing a block or row of them, netting or metal supports would be best (like our “cattle panel supports” featured below).

“Coral Fountain” Amaranth

For best results and more manageable blooms, it’s advisable to “pinch” the plants. If they are not pinched, they tend to grow very large (over 6 foot tall!) and have thick stems that are much too big to use in most floral arrangements (below, you will see an example of Amaranth plants I forgot to pinch! Whoops).

To pinch Amaranth, cut back the center bud/stem when plants are about knee high. This will signal the plant to produce multiple stems that are smaller and easier to use. 

If flowers are harvested and spent blooms are “deadheaded” (removed and not allowed to go to seed), the plants will continue to send up blooms until frost arrives. 

“Chinese Giant Orange” Amaranth


STAGE OF HARVEST

Amaranth can be harvested after the color forms on the spikes or tassels, when about ¾ of the tiny little flowers are open. The spikes or tassels will continue to grow in size as they mature and they have a long harvest window.

However, be sure to harvest before they are too mature or they will drop their seeds all over your table!

“Fercita” Amaranth

Amaranth can be used fresh in arrangements or you can dry it to be used as an “Everlasting” flower.

To dry, simply place them in a bucket in a warm, dry place out of direct sunlight, and let them drape naturally… or hang them upside down. They should dry in about 2 weeks.

POST HARVEST CARE

After harvesting, remove most of the leaves to help the stems re-hydrate more quickly. This also allows the flowers to be more visible.

Amaranth requires no other special care. 

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“Coral Fountain” Amaranth in a wedding arrangement

QUESTIONS?

Ask them here and I’ll get back to you!

Ready for More?

If you’re serious about growing the garden of your dreams this year, register for my online course, “Backyard Cutting Garden 101”. You’ll find everything you need to plan, grow, harvest and arrange your stunning blooms. I can’t WAIT to help you grow! Click on the button below for all the details.

How to Grow: Bells of Ireland


How to Grow: Bells of Ireland


Bells of Ireland have to be one of my favorite foliages/greenery to grow on the farm.

Not only do they add incredible texture and color to arrangements, they are also long-lasting in the vase... and bonus! They smell delicious! To me, they smell exactly like lime flavored Skittles.

Bells of Ireland are often considered a “Hardy Annual”, which means they prefer cooler weather and have some frost tolerance. This also means they are a late spring/early summer blooming flower (they usually die out by mid/late July, when it gets hot).

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Let’s look at the Pros and Cons of growing Bells of Ireland for cut flower use.

PROS

  • They last a long time in the vase (in fact, they can even be dried and used as an “Everlasting Flower”). 

  • They are an excellent foliage/greenery for bouquets and compliment nearly every flower type.

  • They smell good - clean and fresh, with a hint of citrus.

  • They are beautiful, unique and provide visual interest.

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CONS

  • They can be notoriously tricky to start from seed. If you’re a beginner, maybe put this one on hold until you have more experience.

  • They need to be supported with netting or they will be flattened in a rain/wind storm.

  • They develop “spines” that can prick your hands if they are not harvested early enough. 

  • The plants are not particularly long lasting. They are finished on our farm in mid-July. We pull up the plant and put in sunflowers to fill the beds. 

  • They prefer cooler weather and do not handle heat well. For those living in climate with weather extremes, growing Bells of Ireland successfully can be difficult. Here in Michigan, it’s not uncommon in the spring for our temperatures to fluctuate over 60 degrees in a matter of days. Bells of Ireland do not handle these extremes well - they can get stressed and succumb to disease.  


CHOOSING SEEDS

Choosing seeds is easy, because there is only one variety of Bells of Ireland  (Moluccella laevis) that is generally used for cut flowers.

HOW TO SOW

The most difficult part about growing Bells of Ireland is starting the seeds.

They seem to be quite unpredictable and in all my research, I can’t seem to find a “Fool-Proof” method for germination. Instead, I’ll share some suggestions that may help.

First of all, storing the seeds in the freezer until you are ready to sow them is a smart idea. The freezer mimics the natural cold/dormant period the seeds need to germinate properly. 

*Side Note: I store all of my seeds in the freezer, with no ill effects. I figure that if the Svalbard Global Seed Vault, the world’s seed saving experts that are preserving seeds for humanity in case of major global disaster, can store all their seeds in a freezer, so can I. As a bonus, all my hardy annual seeds are always chilled and ready to go. 

Another tip is to soak the seeds in water for 24-48 hours before sowing. This helps to soften the tough seed casing.

Here is my method for germinating. It’s a bit of work and seems a little fussy…. But I’ve had good success! 

1.Soak seeds in water for about 24 hours. Place seeds in a damp paper towel. Put the paper towel in a plastic bag and set it on a heat mat or in a warm spot (on top of your fridge).

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2. In just a few days, the seeds will begin to sprout.

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3. Carefully transfer the sprouted seeds into seed trays, tucking the "tail" (root) into the soil.

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4. Seedlings can grow the trays for a few weeks until they have 2-3 sets of leaves.

Transplants or Direct Sow?

Transplants should be started indoors 6-8 weeks before the last spring frost.

Some people have better success direct sowing Bells of Ireland and don’t even attempt transplants. If you live in a mild climate, you may be able to sow the seeds in the fall or very early spring. They need a cold/dormant period to germinate properly. The freeze/thaw activity also helps to break open the tough seed casing.

For people living in colder climates, I recommend trying both methods. Start some indoors and also direct sow some seeds outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked.

Bells of Ireland can also be grown using the Winter Sowing method. Find out more about Winter Sowing

PLANT SPACING

Bells of Ireland should be spaced 12-18” apart.

GROWING on

Bells of Ireland prefer rich soil, with plenty of nutrients and plenty of water.

If you live in a place with cooler summers, the plants may continue to produce for a few weeks. In Michigan, the summers get too hot and the plants stop producing mid-July. Enjoy them while you can! 

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STAGE OF HARVEST

You’ll know the Bells of Ireland are ready to be harvested when you see the tiny white flowers inside the “bells”. 

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Cut deep down into the plant to get long stems. You may notice the plants begin to develop “spines” as they mature. Watch out!

Strip off the leaves/bells at the bottom of the stem.

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POST HARVEST CARE

Bells of Ireland don’t require any special care after harvest.

Like all flowers, store in a cool, dark place after harvesting and allow stems to rest for a few hours before arranging.

Some people like to remove all the leaves. It’s personal preference whether you do this or not. Sometimes, the leaves will turn brown or spotted, but the bells are still in great shape - in this case, simply remove the leaves.

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QUESTIONS?

Ask them here and I’ll get back to you!


Ready for More?

If you’re serious about growing the garden of your dreams this year, register for my online course, “Backyard Cutting Garden 101”. You’ll find everything you need to plan, grow, harvest and arrange your stunning blooms. I can’t WAIT to help you grow! Click on the button below for all the details.